Final Sea Day and Crew Talent Show
"You can’t control the wind,
but you can adjust your sails.”
Sailor’s Wisdom
Wind Surf Transatlantic Sailing Day 13
Voyage of Restoration
It
seems to me that on these calm, quiet transatlantic voyages, almost everyone
settles in by the end. People seem happier, healthier, and somehow more
themselves. Those who appeared to have difficulty moving about when they first
stepped on board now stroll the decks with greater ease. Older guests who
arrived hunched over or dependent on walking sticks and canes seem to stand a
little straighter.
Faces
that looked pale, exhausted, or pinched with worry two weeks ago now have
colour in them. There are more smiles, more conversations, and more connections.
People who seemed glued to their phones at the beginning of the voyage now sit
quietly at the aft of the ship watching the sea, without apparent pressure to
be doing anything else or rushing anywhere other than exactly where they are.
I
do believe this ship, those who sail aboard her, and time at sea have healing
powers. Not magical powers, exactly, and not the kind that erase real-world
problems. But there is something profoundly restorative about being removed
from the constant demands of land life and placed inside a routine governed by
meals, wind, music, and the sea. These are the kinds of moments everyone needs
from time to time.
It
would seem that passengers are not the only ones restored during a
repositioning voyage. As we have crossed the Atlantic, Wind Surf herself
has been cleaned, refined, sanded, polished, painted, and prepared. Walking
around the decks, the sustained efforts of the crew over the past two weeks are
now clearly visible. The teak looks thoroughly scrubbed. Brass fittings and
instruments shine. Windows gleam. Varnished railings have been repaired or replaced.
Slowly, while we have been resting and watching the sea, the ship has also
been made ready for her summer season in the Mediterranean.
There
is something lovely in that parallel. We came aboard needing repair in ways
less visible than wood or brass. The ship crossed with us, receiving care as
she carried us. By the time Lisbon neared, both passengers and vessel seemed a
little more polished by salt, wind, labour, and time.
Biodiversity at Sea
This
morning was stunning. When I opened the curtains, the sea was rolling in long,
lazy swells, and its surface was glassy smooth, reflecting the soft, pale pink,
gold, and blue of the sky. Outside, the
decks were wet and shining, reflecting the early light, while the deep blue
water below mirrored it back. The sky was mostly clear, with only occasional clouds
overhead, and a gentle breeze moving across the ship.
All
the sails were up, pulled tight in a line parallel with Wind Surf, and
the whole morning felt incredibly serene. We were clearly travelling more
slowly now, averaging closer to nine or ten knots rather than the fourteen or
fifteen knots we had sometimes made earlier. Even at sunrise, there were more
passengers on deck than usual, walking and enjoying the moment. Perhaps
everyone sensed that this was the final full sea day and that these hours had
to be held onto.
During
our first walk around the deck, we spotted two sets of dolphins beside the
bridge. It felt like a wonderful beginning.
Then,
as we continued circling the ship and soaking in the morning, I noticed that
the water was full of tiny brown creatures. At first, I could not work out what
they were. They drifted past in astonishing numbers, small and active, often in
pairs, scrabbling at one another with their front legs. Eventually, we realized
they were crabs - thousands of them.
Later,
we identified them as Henslow’s Swimming Crabs, small crustaceans that live in
the water column and can gather in huge swarms. They were reddish-brown, tiny
from our height above the water, and astonishing in their abundance. Apparently, they have adapted for swimming rather than merely walking along the seabed. Their legs are flattened and fringed with
hairs, allowing them to move efficiently in the water column. They can form
large surface shoals and are known as important prey for gulls and other marine
predators.
After
days of searching for whales, dolphins, seabirds, turtles, and flying fish, it
was a reminder that life at sea does not always arrive in grand
charismatic forms. Sometimes it floats by the thousands in small, vigorous
bodies most people would never notice.
Textures of the Sea
One
of the things I find most fascinating about the ocean is how difficult it is to
describe. You would not think a liquid could have texture, but the sea
certainly does. This morning, it began as a glassy, smooth, mirror-like
surface. Then a slight breeze rose, at first brushing only the tops of the
swells. Suddenly, bands appeared: smooth light blue in the troughs and darker,
lightly rippled blue along the crests.
Then
the wind shifted again. The sea looked woven, then braided, then patterned with
diamonds, then triangles. No two moments were the same. The surface changed so
quickly that by the time the mind found a comparison, the water had already
become something else.
Colour
is even harder. The sea has thousands of colours to go with its many textures,
most of which we do not have names for. Blue, green, grey, and brown are far
too blunt to capture the subtle, shifting, layered tones that surrounded us
this morning. There were reflected colours, shadow colours, sky colours,
light-through-water colours, and colours that seemed to exist only because wind
and sun had briefly agreed on a shape.
It
is something to be experienced more than described. Or perhaps felt more than
explained.
Breakfast and Whale Surveys
We stepped into Veranda for breakfast, and this time
I chose to have yogurt, cereal, fruit and a muffin with my coffee, just to
switch things up a little. We didn't linger too long over breakfast,
although it was delicious as always. We were simply eager to get back to
watching the sea.
And so, soon after we began our daily ORCA
survey, and during the first hour, we spotted three whale blows and two
different groups of dolphins! The whales were all off near the horizon,
but they had very tall, strong, straight blows, and we could tell that one
blew, then gave a long roll of its back, then showed its dorsal fin (but no
flukes) before diving. Likely it was a group of Fin Whales!
During the survey, we also spotted another Loggerhead Sea Turtle. On this
animal, each individual scute looked strongly humped, not like the smooth-shelled ones we'd spotted over the past two days. However, iNaturalist suggests this may simply have been a younger
individual. Either way, it was very exciting!
Final Trivia at Sea
Sean
went inside for trivia at eleven, but I decided to stay outside and enjoy the
beauty of the morning. I continued the cetacean survey, though the whale and
dolphin activity seemed to fade as the morning pushed on. It reminded me of
forest bird surveys, where dawn and dusk can be full of song and movement,
while late morning and afternoon fall quieter.
With
marine life, that comparison does not make perfect sense. Whales and dolphins
need to surface to breathe regardless of the time of day or weather. Yet from
the deck, activity still seemed to come and go in patterns we did not fully
understand. Another ocean mystery to figure out at one point.
Captain's Noon Update
When Sean came back out after trivia, he spotted a
Northern Gannet off the back of the ship. As we were looking at the
beautiful white and black bird, three whales spouted just beyond it! The
whale even breached, but it was too far away by that point to make out the
details apart from a large splash. How exciting is that! In the
same frame of view was a large tanker ship, the first of the day.
At noon, the captain's announcement informed us that we were travelling at a speed
of 9.3 knots over the ocean, which is 4,800 m - deeper than in the previous
days. Since leaving Sint Maarten, Wind
Surf has sailed 2,905 nautical miles and now has only 170 nautical miles
left to reach Lisbon, Portugal.
The
fun fact of the day concerned tides. Ocean tides do more than raise and lower
sea levels; they also affect Earth’s rotation. The tidal bulge created by the
moon exerts a braking effect, gradually slowing the planet’s rotation and
lengthening days by tiny increments over time. I loved receiving that fact on
the final sea day. Even time itself, which has felt so slippery throughout this
crossing, is shaped by the sea and the moon.
Rest, Relaxation and Marine Life
It
was such a beautiful day that we did not want to go up to the buffet for lunch.
Instead, we stayed at the back of the ship near the pool and hot tubs, watching
the waters around us for whales and dolphins. Sean very kindly brought me a
plate of cookies and chocolate cake to tide me over, which made me feel
thoroughly spoiled.
Not
long after, a second sea turtle passed by, larger than the earlier one and with
a very spiky-looking shell.
Next,
a large pod of dolphins swam past, more than fifteen animals leaping and
playing in what looked like a mixed pod of different species.
Then,
as one o’clock approached, a line of shorebirds flew past low over the water - large,
brown above and pale below, disappearing periodically behind the swells. There
were around forty-five of them, likely Eurasian Curlews.
The
nearer we drew to land, the more signs of transition appeared. Turtles,
dolphins, gannets, shorebirds, airplanes overhead, and ships around us all
suggested that the open-ocean portion of the voyage was coming to a close. The
Atlantic was still vast, but Europe was beginning to make itself known.
Ship Construction Competition
From
one until around two-thirty, the ship construction competition took place at
the aft pool. The challenge was to build a vessel using items found around Wind
Surf, with the goal of creating something that could float and carry six
cans of soda. Five teams competed, and the captain, hotel manager, and engineer
served as judges.
A
surprisingly large crowd of passengers and crew gathered to watch, which gave
the whole event a wonderfully festive atmosphere.
Because
the ship itself was rocking, one of the crew members had to move the models
around the pool, adding an extra layer of chaos to the experiment.
One
by one, each improvised vessel was lowered into the water to see whether it
could float. Once it survived that first test, cans of soda were carefully
loaded on board before the boat was propelled across the pool. There was
applause, laughter, and a fair amount of suspense as each creation wobbled,
drifted, listed, or somehow managed to stay upright.
After
the boats had passed their initial challenge, the captain suggested making the
experiment more interesting by adding more weight to see how much each vessel
could carry before tipping, sinking, or otherwise giving way. At that point, the
whole thing became even more entertaining.
The
captain and bridge officers seemed to take almost childlike delight in the
process, crouching over the pool, watching the boats intently, and encouraging
each new test as though they were running a very serious maritime trial.
I
watched with a rum and hot chocolate in hand, which felt like an appropriate
beverage for a final sea day: warm, indulgent, slightly ridiculous, and very
shipboard.
The
competition was silly, inventive, and surprisingly absorbing. After nearly two
weeks at sea, watching people cheer for improvised boats carrying soda cans
seemed exactly right.
Birds at Compass Rose
After
the excitement of the boating competition, we sat outside of Compass Rose, relaxing. Then suddenly - a swallow flew
past. It was dark above, with a split
tail, and its sudden appearance caused immediate delight. In Portugal, swallows
are often associated with good luck, fidelity, spring, and returning home,
which is why ceramic swallows are hung on houses.
Soon
afterward, a sparrow landed on the railings of the flying bridge. Fifteen
minutes later, two more swallows passed through. Then another sparrow appeared
on the ship. The arrival of land birds was yet another sure sign that we were
nearing the end of the voyage.
Beyond
these birds, above us, contrails marked the sky. We were now under Lisbon’s
flight path. Ahead and behind us were cargo ships, tankers, and container vessels,
each indicating that we had entered Lisbon’s wider shipping lanes. After days
of open seas, these symbols of modernity and speed began to gather around us:
airplanes overhead, commercial traffic on the horizon, land birds using the
ship as a temporary resting place.
They
were all prefaces to our return.
Amid
this, we saw two more whales, likely Fin Whales, though another passenger
thought they might be Humpbacks. Soon afterward, the captain announced that
dolphins were bow-riding on the port side. They turned out to be Striped
Dolphins, and instead of heading indoors, we stayed at Compass Rose, continuing
to watch the water. Around 4:15, two more whales breached with large V-shaped
blows, and behind them came another large pod of dolphins.
By
then, I had been joined by several other passengers with binoculars, all
watching from the port side. The final sea day had become a gathering at the
railings to share the moment.
Gorringe Ridge
One
possible reason for the abundance of marine life was that we were passing north
of the Gorringe Ridge on our approach to Lisbon. This underwater ridge rises
from the deep northeast Atlantic, southwest of Portugal and forms an important
feature in the surrounding oceanography. Where the seafloor rises, currents, nutrients,
and water movement can create richer feeding conditions than in the surrounding
deep ocean. This happens in other
regions around the world, such as the Grand Banks off the coast of Newfoundland.
That
may help explain why we saw so much life today. Whales, dolphins, turtles,
fish, crabs, and seabirds often concentrate where physical features shape the
movement of nutrients and prey. To us, from the surface, it looked like open
water.
Evening at Sea
Unfortunately, as happens too often on board, the day seemed to race past.
Sunset
brought a stunning display of gold before the sky transformed into streaks of
pink and fading blue. We stayed outside for another half hour rather than going
in for the talk. It was too beautiful to leave.
Eventually,
we went down to freshen up before the evening’s crew show, taking showers and
putting away our laundry. From six to seven, we had dinner in Amphora: market
salad and a broccoli, beetroot, and goat cheese tart.
Afterward,
we returned to Compass Rose for a Guinness and a glass of wine.
Crew Talent Show
It was incredibly peaceful outside, though also quite cold, and before long, we retreated indoors to the Lounge, where Pure Soul Trio were warming up the passenger audience before Windstar’s signature Crew Talent Show.
The
Crew Talent Show began with Nikki as MC, and it is one of the most joyful
events of the voyage. Last year's crew talent show on Wind Surf's spring transatlantic voyage was one of our favourite evenings on board.
The crew aboard Wind Surf represents a wide range
of nationalities, though the Philippines and Indonesia were especially well
represented, and the performances reflected that cultural richness through
traditional songs, dances, humour, music, and sheer courage.
The
talent was remarkable. Assistant Chef Emil sang “Eye of the Tiger.”
Selu
offered an Indonesian dance.
Erlan
from the dining team played guitar.
The
Destinations Manager, Joanna sang opera.
Members
of the engine room performed a hilarious dance routine with painted stomachs.
The
crew performed a traditional Filipino dance using intricate hand and foot
movements.
Laily from Compass Rose sang “Will You Remember.”
Faisal
from the dining team sang Johnny Cash.
And
the Wind Surf Synchronized Swimmers brought the room to laughter.
What
struck me most was not only the talent, though there was plenty of it. It was
the joy. These are people who work incredibly long hours, often far from home
for months at a time, and yet they gave the passengers an evening full of
energy, humour, and generosity. It was an incredible gift from them to everyone
on board. Hopefully, our images and videos of the show can serve as a little bit of thanks back to them as well for all they share with every passenger.
After
the show, we returned to Compass Rose, only to discover that the outside air
had grown dramatically cooler. We stayed for about an hour anyway, enjoying Elaine Eagle’s piano playing and
singing before finally heading to bed.
We
knew we would have to be up very early. Landfall was coming. Another voyage was
nearly behind us.
Night of Final Sea Day
Today was one of our longest and best days at sea on board Wind Surf. From an abundance of whales, dolphins, and sea turtles to ship competitions and the amazing Crew Talent Show, this was a very full and wonderful sea day.
Tomorrow,
very early, we make landfall again. Indeed, the lights of Lisbon are already on the horizon. Another voyage has passed.
I
still do not know exactly what to do or what to think about what comes next. I
have felt so happy and relaxed on this trip, so peaceful and alive, and yet I
worry that my thoughts will become loud again when we return to land. I worry
that my anxieties will overwhelm me, that I will become paralyzed by the
decisions waiting for us, and that the demands of our future will rush back in
before I have fully come to terms with things.
I
wonder what my mind and body can handle when we are back on land.
Has
our time on Wind Surf given way to an
answer? I do not know. Do I have more clarity, more perspective? I think so,
though I am not entirely sure. Perhaps I will only know when I am back home,
packing, moving, and facing the next stage of life in all its challenges.
Maybe
there are no simple answers. Maybe this voyage has not been about solving
anything, but is more about allowing things to shift. Maybe it has been about
giving ourselves a few days without the chaos of the age pounding at us. Maybe
it has been about rest, not resolution.
Amid
it all, I have found peacefulness. A breathing space at sea in a loud world.
And
perhaps, for now, that is enough.
See you on board!
Nautical Term of the Day – Dogwatch - Shortened evening watch.
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